佳能115hs拆机教程
这是什么？ 收起来是八幺零的，但是像我经常就看不出来，到底什么插到你的箱子里面去啊？我插的相机呢？那你们数据的。
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00:56查看AI文稿AI文稿佳能 ecc 幺幺五 ccd 相机镜头错误？老曹掐指一算，颜色这么好看的相机不用说了， 一定是备受小姐姐宠幸的。这台相机小主人是位粉丝小姐姐的可能是使用过程中不小心磕碰到了相机的镜头，导致开机后镜头爆错，拆出来后发现是镜头里面镜头上的齿轮坏了，才使得镜头无法正常工作，就让我来把它更换掉吧！ 最近的小姐姐们都在用 ccd 相机拍港台风，佳能 excess 系列又重新回到了属于他们的光辉时刻。更换好后 ok 键上机测试完美，开机后镜头不再爆错。不得不说，佳能 excess 好看又轻便， 受小姐姐们的喜欢也不是没有道理的，全都装好后再次测试也没有任何问题，晚点可以给小姐姐发回去了。今天就到这里吧，下次见，散会！
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01:06查看AI文稿AI文稿佳能 iss 幺幺五镜头错误，这个相机开机爆错？话不多说，跳过拆机步骤直接拆出来镜头检测一下问题。 这类 ccd 相机出现镜头故障的爆错，一般都是无意间的挤压或者是磕碰和外力的摔倒而造成的，一般都是镜头里面的小组件出现了问题。 老曹维修 ccd 下机经验相对来说比较丰富，所以拆出镜头后很容易就判断出了问题，修好后通电测试一下。 遇到此类问题不要着急，也不要想着用你的大力神指按回去，因为这样是会造成二次伤害的。如果你的手指实在是痒痒，那就随意的按吧，毕竟相机是你的，钱也是你的呀，不完全装机也是可以测试的，测试完没问题了， 继续把剩余的部分也安装好就可以了。维修视频可能会比较枯燥，但还是要谢谢各位宝子们的支持与陪伴，欢迎铁子们评论区留言给我，下期见！
02:39查看AI文稿AI文稿大家好，佳能的 exces 幺幺五开机之后报镜头出错，将自动关机，请重新启动相机。镜头伸在外边，不回下边，马上拆修， 拆下屏幕 拆下， 拆下闪光板， 拆下镜头 分离镜头。经过咱们检测呢，发现这个对焦马达不好啊，咱们找一个马达给他换掉。 呃，咱们找了一个马达，已经给他换上。那咱们装机测试一下，装上镜头，闪光版屏幕， 装好机壳，现在咱们相机已经装好了。嗯，装上电池和内存卡了。来给他测试一下。开机镜头伸出 读卡正常，变焦正常，对焦正常，拍照正常。咱们看一下闪光灯， 闪光灯正常，按键正常。 呃，模式转换正常。好，这个相机呢就修好了。
12:56查看AI文稿AI文稿hi， i'm gordon from camera labs in this video you're going to see an exclusive teardown of a new canon rf lens and a peek into their latest optical technology in manufacturing if you've ever been curious what goes on inside a modern lens this is the video for you normally camera companies can be quite secretive about their designs and in 30 years of technical journalism i've rarely had any official access to the actual manufacturing processes beyond occasional factory visits with anxious managers ensuring we don't look too closely so when canon reached out and asked if i'd be interested in filming one of their engineers disassembled new lens in close up detail and explain exactly what's behind their latest optical designs？ i said yes， please now this video isn't sponsored by canon it's just a rare opportunity to look behind the scenes which i thought would be interesting to anyone whose into lenses regard of the system that you use so thanks to canon for the invitation and let's get started our specimen today is the canon rf 28 mill f 2.8 stm a pancake lens announced in made 23， which uses some pretty interesting new types of optical elements to achieve its compact size and weight all lenses start with the design brief setting out not just the focal length and aperture， but also the target quality the approximate size and weight and of course the design price point for this model kanam wanted to produce a compact and affordable pancake lens for the rsr mirrorless system and 28 mill was chosen as its a flexible focal length for stills photography and video on both full frame and cropped apsc systems trouble is though the shorter back focus distance of mule as cameras compared to dslrs presents an optical challenge for wide lenses if you don't do it right， you'll suffer from greater softening and darkening towards the corners the diagram on the left shows the earlier ef 40 millimeter f 2.8 lens designed for the longer flange distance of dslrs notice the fairly shallow angle of the light ray as it strikes the extremes of the sensor now on the right look what happens if you try to use the same optical formula for the shorter flange distance of a mirrorless camera the angle of the light ray becomes larger resulting in greater darkening and softness towards the corners to reduce the angle at the extremes you need a new optical design with some unconventional looking elements here's canon solution for the rf 28 where a series of three large aspherical elements towards the rear of the lens work together to deliver much shallower light ray angles the largest element of all at the rear is only possible thanks to the diameter of the rf mount， but proposing a design is only one half the story now you need to actually make these unusual elements in practice again， while attempting to meet the target weight and price point the rf 28 2.8 design employs three a spherical elements so called as their shape is not a section of a simple sphere or cylinder modern lenses often employ a spherical elements alongside more conventional spherical ones to reduce issues like spherical operations but there's actually several ways to make them cannon has four different ways of producing a spherical elements depending on the target quality weight price and the actual complexity of the shape itself a typical lens could include elements made using several of the following techniques the first and most traditional option is to grind the shape cannon typically grows fluorite crystals then grinds them into the desired shape which can produce very high quality results， but they're also heavy and expensive to make so generally reserved for their flagship l series lenses the second technique is replica aspherical where a normal spherical element is bonded with a resin layer to give it an aspherical shape 34th use molding techniques to shape molten glass or plastic resin into the desired aspherical shape these allow often complex shapes to be produced at a low cost and thereby are a popular option in consumer lenses again the final lens design could include a combination of elements made using these different techniques in order to meet the target brief of the four techniques plastic molded elements or pmos， may seem like a basic approach， but by injecting optical grade resin into a precision mode then hardening it with uv light you're able to easily make elements that wouldn't be possible with glass molding or prohibitively expensive with grinding techniques indeed the rf 28 2.8 3 largest focal elements are all produced using plastic molding and allow it to not only meet the target price weight and size， but also deliver high quality results than you might expect while pmos are a fairly modern technique for producing elements cannons actually been using them in many of its lenses for some time now in fact most of the more affordable lenses in the rf lineup employed pmos in their optical designs including the sixteen two point eight fifteen to thirty twenty four to fifty twenty four to one of five s t m twenty four to two forty twenty four one point eight， fifty one point eight and one hundred to four hundred as well as the festal lenses designed for crop tpsc bodies going further back still pmos were also used in the efm 1855， 18150 and 15 to 45 as well as the efs 18 to 55 and 18 to 135 so they've actually been around for some time and most canon owners have probably had at least one in their collections in fact pmo's first counting for cannon was in the snappy 50 back in 1982， the use of plastic molding also allows you to easily produce squared off rectangular shaped elements allowing lens designers to not only reduce weight but reclaim space occupied by redundant portions of a traditional circular element remember your sense from photos are rectangular to technically there's no need for all the elements to be circular of course you could also grind a glass or fluoride element into a rectangle， but it would add to the cost versus a mold element where it's produced at the time of injection so let's now see how all this theory is put into practice by disassembling the rf282.8 and seeing not just those unusually shaped elements， but how the space savings been put to use the lens was taken apart by shinsukito from canon who guided me through each step in component the entire process took roughly half an hour， but i have sped up sections here okay， so the first step is removing the lens mount there's four screws to remove after which you comprise the metal mount from the barrel note the damage of the rf mount is what allows those large rear elements which in turn provide great flexibility and optical design after popping out the central baffle section you can remove the external decorative ring now you can see the main circuit board for the lens along with the ribbon cable leading to the 12 pins which used for communication with the camera body the rf mount allows much faster data communications in the older ef mount in turn enhancing things like focusing up to control and stabilization not to mention supporting additional controls you can also see the shape the circuit board is exploiting the space that's freed up by those rectangular lens elements and as partly what's allowing a more compact lens barrel after unscrewing and removing the circuit board is possible to unscrew the external barrel due to the size of the lens this is a fairly short cylindrical section put its home to the main switch allowing you to select manual or auto focus or assign the focusing ring to a custom control next is to remove the stm focusing motor itself a tiny component that again slips into the space free by the rectangular lens elements accommodating focusing motors is a key challenge for lens designers so the chance to exploit any space space is welcome cannons used a gear type stepping motor here for size smooth operation and fast response next shin prizes off the ring printed with the lens name and spex has seen from the front and now for what shin calls the fixed barrel， which surrounds much of the lens group， which has become progressively exposed during the physical disassembly the lens is then turned round to remove the filter barrel held in place by three screws as its name suggests this is used to mount filters and as a side note it's interesting how on modern mirrorless lens designs the larger elements are now often at the rear of the lens leaving a relatively small one at the front and that's the opposite to many dslr lenses that we're used to next the lens group is removed from the focus barrel and ashun turns this from the side you'll see the helical grooves used to shift the required lenses while focusing now finally we can take part the main lens group starting with the protection glass， which represents group 6 next comes group 5 which consists of a single large plastic molded a spherical element and from the reflections you can see this is the one with the seagle profile and again notice its rectangular shape nection removes the first of several tiny collars these were adjusted on each lens to fine tune their performance at the factory and ensure the optics are perfectly lined up the first lens group can now be separated to reveal the electromagnetic die fram or emd for short this is what adjusts the lens aperture and while it's operated electronically by the camera in normal use is possible to demonstrate the opening and closing mechanism with the right tool this iris on rf lenses can also be adjusted in very fine increments to minimize visible steps and exposure while filming video after removing another adjustment colour the section containing the second and third optical groups can be separated and after peeling off a ring you can see the third group and this consists of another plastic molded aspherical element note， how this one is circular this leaves one final group and if you've been counting you'll know it's group four again containing one plastic molded aspherical element and like group five it's a larger more complex shape with squared off corners this leaves the guide barrel as the last part of the disassembly process let's now take a closer look at the elements laid out in group order starting with the group which consists of two glass elements next his group two which also contains two glass elements now his group three which consists of one element and it's the first of the three plastic molded or piamo aspherical elements next in group four is the second pmo and notice how it's squared off and after that it's the rear most fifth group containing another single pmo that's also rectangular in shape these five groups of seven elements make up the main optical construction of the lens， but there's an additional covering element to the very rear representing a sixth group let's take a closer look at the three main plastic molded as focal elements and as shouldn't angles them to catch the light you'll notice the reflections revealing their unusual shapes in particular， the two squared offers spherical elements， employ， almost， wing light profiles not similar tip say a seagle and fly tor perhaps an elaborate moustache i love looking at reflections in lenses and some of these remind me of the black hole in interstellar anyways these shapes that are allowing compact wide angle mirrorless lenses to deliver well corrected results into the corners despite the short flange distance and i believe cannon is one of the first companies to produce this kind of element for a mass produced lens and while you could in theory grind them out of fluorite or other elements it again would be difficult expensive and in some cases completely impractical indeed plastic molding was primarily chosen here as the best way to achieve the actual complex shape with the added benefits of being lighter and more affordable while also providing the opportunity first squared off shapes cannons also making bold claims about the performance with the rf 282.8 mtf chart looking pretty respectable against the high end rf twenty eight seventy f two l zoom at twenty eight mill or be it open to f two the rf twenty eight two point eight seventy f char also compares favorably against nikon's recent z twenty six two point eight and while the dimensions and weight are similar cannons is also coming in cheaper in my thirty years of reviewing camera gear i've learned it's important to approach new materials， technologies and techniques with an open mind and the bottom line is while high end lenses like cannon's l series will continue to grind fluoride elements for some time plastic molded elements are allowing more compact and affordable designs that literally punch above their weight of course the proof of the pudding is in the eating so i'll be thoroughly testing the rf 28 2.8 as soon， as i get hold of a reviewable sample to see if it lives up to expect take make sure you subscribed with notifications so you don't miss out on that or any of my other in depth reviews in the meantime， i hope you enjoyed this technology backgrounder and thanks again to cannon for the opportunity to peep behind the scenes of their latest lens designs and of course shin's expert skills at taking apart the lens now all i have to do is figure out how it all fits back together again， thanks for watching and i'll see you next time bye bye。
06:00
09:27查看AI文稿AI文稿如果你的相机镜头前筒损坏了，你会自己更换吗？那我们今天来讲讲镜头前筒损坏该怎么解决。 我们准备好了一个幺八幺三五的镜头，还有他的筒前筒，还有他的镜头外交皮，我们接下来讲讲如何拆解好。我们现在开始 先把镜头外段的固定螺丝把它取下来，这一步我们是需要把整个的镜头卡口和卡口后段的触点一块取下来， 我现在把螺丝拆完了，我们需要拆解一下镜头触点的螺丝， 我们现在把整个卡口取下来， 现在能看见的是整个镜头的数据版 上面连接的软排线，我们也需要把它一个一个的取下来，在取这个的时候一定要小心啊，不能把它损坏了。 我们接着往下拆解竹筒，同样他也是有很多小螺丝固定在上面的， 这还有一个变焦的主导螺丝，这个也需要取下来， 然后我们能把整个边角桶取下来，还得接着往下拆，现在就到我们需要换的这个桶了， 这有几个？有三个倒轮螺丝，只需要把这三个倒轮螺丝取掉以后，我们就能简单的把这个前桶分离， 我们现在把它分开，现在就剩最后一步，把我们的前镜片拆下来，前镜片下面也有几个固定螺丝， 这个螺丝的位置还有镜片的位置我们需要做一个记号，我们先把螺丝取下来， 然后给他做个记号， 这样方便我们后期安装的时候知道他的位置。 整个镜头拆完了就这么些， 给大家来个特写，看看 是不是很简单。好，我们现在把需要更换的桶拿出来， 我们对比之前做的记好，给他把位置记下来，然后把镜片装上， 只要按照原来的位置装好以后，基本上就对焦距没有影响，给他重新固定好吧 螺丝， 然后我们把整个小主体把它再装回去，这样再把他的三个转动轴的螺丝再给他固定好， 接着再把镜头的外桶再给他装上， 是不是很简单，我们只需要按照原来的步骤，一步一步的把它往回装上就可以，这个时候 一定要注意原来的排线不要压到，整理一下 再用螺丝给他固定上。 其实在拆修的过程中，对于新手而言，最主要的问题就是要记住哪些地方上哪些螺丝。 安装完这些螺丝，我们就可以把主板，现在把主板装上去就行了， 找准那个排线的 位置，然后把对应的排线装到插排里就可以。先把主板固定一下， 安装这个排线的时候一定要小心，这是我第二次的提醒，因为这个排线如果有损坏，就会导致镜头有各种故障 啊。我们再接着装前桶外壳， 接着把镜头卡口给他装上 好卡口的螺丝， 固定好卡口的螺丝，我们再把侧面的转轴螺丝给他装上 哦，千万不要忘记了还有触点螺丝，这个要不装的话，装上机身指定显示 f 零零。 好，我们把防身罩一块 装上好，再简单的给他来个大保健吧。我们用棉花把镜头前端先清理一下， 再把大金片给他清理一下， 只需要左圈圈右圈圈，划个几圈圈基本上就 ok 了。 那我们装机身测试一下，看看效果怎么样。 我们先测试一下远端牌照啊，没问题。那我们再测试一下近端，先 调整一下光圈， 拍照也没问题。好，我们现在把镜头的胶皮给他装上。 好，我们只需把胶皮从前端慢慢的套进去就可以了。这个应该比较简单，没什么难度，就是有需要你一点点的往上往里转。好，最后把镜头的名牌给他贴上。 那么本次我们镜头前统的更换方法就分享到这里了，喜欢的给我们点个关注，下期我们接着分享。加盟的 幺八五五。镜头不能对焦的时候该怎么办？按对焦没有任何反应，拍照也无法正常工作，这个时候你会处理吗？请接着关注我们，我们下期接着讲。
03:18查看AI文稿AI文稿这是在闲鱼上录的一个相机，是一个佳能的 ccd。 呃，是在我 星期六的时候，星期六上午买的，然后那小姐姐非常好，他下午就给我发货，发了顺丰快递，然后今天下午就到啦，我已经每天都在期待他的到来，现在终于到手了，我们来拆开看一看这个快递吧， 因为我之前也也有一个佳能的 ccd， 是 a 系列的，他是要放那种五号电池，但是，嗯，因为， 嗯比较老化了吧，然后用了一段时间，突然有一天开不了机了，可能是那个主板烧坏了，所以，嗯，所以我又带 咸鱼上录了一个清洗机看一下。哦，这是他的充电器，他的一个原装充电器，保存的非常的完好，没有磨损的感觉，非常新的。啊，这就是相机啦，看到相机啦， 嗯，这里还有一个读卡器丢一边。我们先来看一下 cd 吧， 别，非常的轻，非常期待。 是那天在抖音上看到这个相机，跟小姐姐聊了几句，然后我一直非常心动，然后非常爽快的就下单了， 不要让我失望。哇，这个包装非常的完美，包的非常严实 啊。这个相机，哇，这屏幕还很新哎，这个屏幕还不错。嗯，后面也没有磨损，非常新的一个 ccd， 非常新，非常满意，特别好看，特别精致 来。嗯，开机看一下，看一下效果吧，外观上没有什么，开机 是非常的完美的，我们看一下他是多少倍变多少倍变焦。十 十六倍变焦，不过换了十六倍，有一点模糊，不过 ccd 也挺不错的，来拍照看一下效果怎么样。 嗯，开闪光灯的效果还是不错的。哇，还有小姐姐之前拍的照片太漂亮了，太美了吧！ 感觉这个 cd 拍夜景也是挺好看的，非常的有质感，而且这个相机拿在手里也是有一点点重量，但是我非常喜欢，非常满意。
11余周周呀
15:00查看AI文稿AI文稿大家好，有一段时间没有更新作品了啊。呃，现在出一个教程视频，呃，里面的内容涉及到打印机的拆装机，打印机结构， 还有解决打印出来纸面章调墨车高低，拆装墨车等等等等啊，还有一些注意事项 啊，大家看完视频还有什么不懂的欢迎在评论区留言，我看到会尽可能第一时间为大家答疑解惑啊。 呃，现在先说一下这个佳能六七八零六八八零八七八零，这个打印机的拆装要准备一个剪刀啊，正常的话我是有这种一字 螺丝刀就最好了啊。嗯，没有的话就只能是用这种剪刀来代替，然后一把十字螺丝刀，还有一个夹子或者是橡皮筋啊，也可以。 打印机首先先开机，开机之后把右手边这个小孔里面塞的东西拿掉，然后这个制车会移动到中间停下来，这个一整个我们叫制车，也叫做磨车。呃，停下来之后就取磨合， 呃，取墨盒之前先用这个夹子把这个木管折死啊，防止等会墨水回流啊，也要排空气就麻烦一点，多一个步骤，拿出来的时候， 然后这个磨合口撒上啊，放到一边， 然后把电源线拔了， 然后就可以开始拆这个打印机了。先用这个剪刀把打印机上面这一块感应器的盖子把它取出来，从右往左推一下啊，用剪刀 敲一下就可以取下来了，然后取这个感应器的排线， 也是往右取这个，往右取那个，往左手推，然后取打印机左手边这个边盖，呃，八七八零的取 边盖方法我放在视频后面啊。嗯，这个详细的到后面看啊，然后打印机后面有两个螺钉，八七八零也是一样，有的用螺丝刀扭掉， 然后这个捏盖就可以取出来了， 还有六个暗扣，这里一个，然后这个孔里面有一个，这个孔有个，这边和这边都有一个 啊，这里有个八七八零也是一样的，前面还有侧边，还有两边啊， 这个剪刀从这个小孔伸进去顶一下，先顶前面顶的时候另外一个手，呃，拿，拿出这个面盖，一个手指顶住机身啊，往上抬， 然后伸到这个孔里面拨一下， 好，面盖就可以取出来了。看一下里面的结构，往里面顶的 这个也是一样，往里面顶一下，往里面顶一下，这个面盖就可以取上来了， 然后看到的这个整个机器就分面盖这一整个我们叫机身，然后这个左右移动叫制车末车，这个叫禁止器这一块，然后这边这一块的话叫做清洁单元或者是车末工。 呃，然后旁边有个主板，八七八零也是一样，只是多一个颜色而已，其他都是差不多的啊。结构， 还有这个电源啊。现在说下这个怎么样去拆这个墨车， 要拆这个末车的话，把上面这块盖子取掉， 他这个轨道上面这一块铁 有三个，四个螺钉，四个螺钉， 哼。 取掉这四个螺钉之后，上面这块铁拿走啊，然后取这个光三条往右手边拉一下就可以取出来了，他是挂上去的，左手边有个弹簧拉住的，取之前仔细观察都很简单，很直刮。然后取这个皮带 往右手边啊推一下，他就可以拿出来了，然后仔细观察这个六七八零，左手边这里有个缺口， 这个自测移过来之后，他对准这个缺口就可以往上拿的出来了，装的时候也是一样啊，对准这个缺口啊，注意这个排线不要让他打搅。放平， 直接放平下去就可以放到位了。然后这个皮带捋顺，先勾住左手边 这个轮子上，皮带慢慢上啊，先把左手边勾住，然后右手边对准这个电机啊，然后转一下 另外一个手，用另外一个手推一下这个吧，推一下这个轮子，让他的距离缩短一点，挂上去比较轻松，转一下好转到位啦，然后装这个框上 三条 啊，勾上去，右手边挂好， 然后把这一块给他。呃，扭回去， 现在只是简单示范一下啊。 哎呀，取下来， 然后这个，呃，这个试车取下来之后这个排线，取这个排线他 是靠这块塑料固定这个排线的，不让这个排线到处乱跑。这塑料仔细观察这里，这里有个扣子顶出外面来， 然后整个整个塑料啊，是要往左手边推，把这个点进去，然后这个塑料往左手边推，就可以取出来了 啊，取之前这个有个线啊，先把它给把这个线给取掉，你看这一块就可以取出来了 啊，右手边也很直观，自己仔细观察这里的 磁铁啊，这排线插到主板上面去的，把它给拔掉，其中要留意有一些排线，他的这种比较细呃，然后他固定这个排线的话，他这个是 拨起来，要拨起来，然后这个排线放进去，然后这个压下去来固定这个排线了，不是直接插板的，自己仔细观察一下，不要把这一块固定排线，这个塑料这个压压的，这个给搞断去啊。 呃，走排线的时候要尽量里顺这个排线，不要让他乱七八糟的。 呃，接下来下一个呢，就说一下这个纸面脏，另外一个解决办法， 这个塑料装的话也是，呃，往右手边推啊，卡到位，然后往右手边推一下就可以了。这个纸面脏。另外一个办法呢，就可能是这个打印头底面底下脏了， 或者是卡了一点纸，在那个打印头底下取打印头方法，六七八零，八七八零，这些都是一样的，打开这个盖子，打印头就可以拿出来了， 看一下下面还有这个自车里面是不是有纸屑 的话，很简单放进去就可以了。这个 现在这个计算我已经洗干净了。呃，然后拿出来那个纸面脏，还有个可能就是这个智商太低了，这需要调高一点，你把这四个螺钉扭松之后，注意看他这个 铁块，他是可以前后移动的，把后面移动就是把这个智商调高一点，往前面移动就是调低。嗯，还有他这个智商轨道下面这一 一块他也是可以调整的，也是有四个螺钉，后面有螺钉，然后也可以参考这个小孔，这里有个小孔，小孔刻度和这个一样啊，仔细看他 原本在这个位置，你要调低一点啊，可以往后面往前面移一点，可以参考这个到底是调的多高，因为你如果是一味的求 高啊，调太高的话，等一下他这个呃智齿太高了，他会碰到面盖移动到右手边或左手边，他是呃会爆错，他不顺畅，他会爆错的，所以说高低要调整合适，太低他要刮到纸面啊。 呃，全部装好之后接下来就是就是装瓶盖了啊，其实打印 都是一样啊，一些细节问题啊， 修打印机他不是打篮球速度快啊，只是又要帅啊。这个需要我们慢慢来慢工才能出细活嘛，不然 最后打印机没修好，把额度搞出来。另外一个问题就麻烦了，用我们家乡的话就叫做八百搞出个一定要二啊，哈哈。 装的时候应该放平，最重要的是打印机右手边这里 他有排线，装之前要用手把它给按压进去，防止等下面盖盖下来的时候把你插好的排线给给松了啊。等会装回去他又爆错， 放平之后往下面轻轻一拍 就可以了，八七八零也是一样的。然后，呃，对了，还有这个排线刚才没留意啊，搞到外面来了又要取一遍。所以说装之前要仔细观察 啊，先把这个排线把它放到里面去， 然后再把面盖盖下来。 嗯，盖到位置后把这个排线 拿回去。 嗯，插好，你要把这个盖子把它给装好，这车移出来，把连工漠盒装回去。 装到位啊，装到位之后再开机把这个感应器塞好，如果不用芯片的话。呃，再取掉感应器，智者移出来，首先装一下木盒， 这些我往期视频都有说了，就不继续详细说了啊，这个视频就到这里， 家人八七八零要拆外壳赶连供或者是拆机器啊。现在说下那个步骤，首先要把打印机后面那两颗螺钉给扭了， 然后呢，接下来取两边那个边盖 左左上右后啊，他的这个边盖取的方向左上呢，就是首先取后面这一颗，后面一个卡子往上。
4192粉墨人生
02:06
