steam deck外壳更换教程
hey， guys， taki here if you are a fan of transparent shells for your gaming handhelds we finally have one for the steam deck we've had bagshell mods for a few months now that are easy to install， but a lot of people are waiting for a complete kit to come out an extreme rate was one of the first to announce their new line of replacement shells for the steam deck in this video i'm gonna attempt to do a complete shell replacement on a steam deck and i'll post this video even if i'm not successful， but before we do that we have one problem to solve as you may or may not know i have two steam decks these are both 512 gigabyte decks one of them took me seven months and over one thousand dollars to buy and the other is a review unit from valve i like each of them way too much to risk on this product， but i still want to try this build so that means i need to get my hands on another steam deck just for this project unfortunately that's a little more complicated than it probably is where you live because i live a a country that cannot order a steam deck directly from valve thankfully there's a large gray market that i can hopefully use to get one today i started this by trying to get a second hand deck from someone that lives in the same city as me there are some available， but the prices are very high while i was looking i found that there were a few sellers that had walls of steam decks for a ten percent markup i contacted a few of them to see if i could meet up face to face so i didn't have a repeat of steam deck one and i got someone that was willing with that i headed over to the electronics market and went inside a random office building on the 20th floor， i found a company that specializes in reselling imported phones and after 30 minutes or so a guy showed up with three sealed decks i cracked the seal open the case and verified the device could boot with working buns so for the low price of four hundred fifty dollars i was able to buy a third deck for this video and thanks to the magic of globalization my deck has had an interesting life it was made 1000 miles from where i live before it traveled 6000 miles to calgary where it was sold on open to someone that shipped it 6000 miles back to the country where it was made so it could end up in my hands and here it is kind of strange to look at this case because my other two came with the special case this is the first time that i've seen the normal case in person， i quickly verified that the deck still works in my studio， so if everything goes according to plan this one will have an atomic purple shell on it later today， i just want to comment that not having the anti glare coating is so strange to me after using both of my decks for probably hundreds of hours at this point i just can't go back so to be honest i really want to do a clear shell or a white shell replacement on my steam deck i think that's ultimately where i'm going to leave it however， the company didn't send me those colors， so i'll just show off the two colors that i do have we'll talk about the quality of the material and how i think it holds up to the oem shell and then we'll start the long and laborious process of doing the full shell replacement our first one is the transparent case they also sent me a purple one that changes colors depending on the angle that you look at it i think this one is pretty solid the only thing is that the glossy surface is kind of reflective whereas this one is more reminiscent of the steam deck this is kind of like a super flashy version of the deck i don't like reflective stuff that much so this one's not for me， but it's still a really good shell now people want to know how the new shells compared to the official one i think that the transparent case is gonna feel a little different because of the materials that you have to use to get get it to be transparent but the solid shells like this one should be able to feel identical to the official steam deck shell as long as they use the same plastic formula if you've ever done a full shell replacement like this then you'll know that there's a huge spectrum on the market when it comes to quality i talked about this when i did my psp video in 2023 about how some replacement shells were way worse than the official ones i'll link to that video in the card right now because it goes over a lot of important things that i'm going to glance over in this video the shell market is filled with stuff that looks good or looks passable when you take a photo or a video of it when you hold it in your hands the feeling is way worse than official shells so i hope that that is not the case with this one let's take a closer look at the transparent shell there are a lot of people who have tried to do transparent purple products and some of them do it really really poorly this one looks like a pretty awesome purple shell the transparency is decent as is the saturation i'm also not seeing a lot of imperfections in the shell cases like this can be really unforgiving if you have any kind of imperfections in your mold they will show up and since this one doesn't appear to be painted or have any kind of sand blasting on the inside or outside， it's really hard to hide those if you have any issues， they are going to show up like a sore thumb， but if you look at the inside of this it's looking pretty good the only thing that i'm not too ecstatic about is the fact that this one has the company logo right here etched into the mold it doesn't show up in the solid colors so it isn't really a problem but obviously you're gonna see it with the transparent case， i don't really want to advertise for a company when i'm using a product like this on my own i'd rather have no brands at all， but as you can see we don't have any major spots or blemishes this is a really nice shell it's one of the nicer transparent purple shells that i've seen in person this surface does not feel exactly the same as the oem shell this one has kind of a semi rough texture to it this one is a little smoother the chameleon one is way smoother if i were to close my eyes i would be able to know that this one's the valve one obviously because it still has the valve logo and the texture is a bit different， but this new one doesn't feel bad they've also gone ahead and molded all of the buttons which i think is a really cool touch so except for the analog sticks we're gonna have a really nice looking transparent purple device once this build is done now it's time to actually build this thing and through the magic of editing we're able to cut this entire assembly process down to a few minutes i originally filmed all of this so i could make a tutorial and i can still do that if people want but this video won't have a tutorial as you can imagine it takes a long time to do this especially if it's your first time and you're watching the tutorial without any dialogue the clips that you're watching right now were part of three and a half hours of footage working on this product i let the camera roll even when i wasn't doing anything so it is possible to do this build a lot faster， but there are some roadblocks that are going to get in your way there are three factors that contribute to a long build time with this kit the first would be the inherent difficulty of swapping over so many components to a new shell the second would be issues or misleading aspects in the company's tutorial and the last would be issues with the kid itself with everything that i know now i think i could do the entire shell swap in 30 to 40 minutes there are things that you can do to gain this a bit if you were trying to do a speed run， but it's not gonna be possible on a deck that has never been taken apart what i want to do now is talk about some of the issues that i ran into while doing this build before we look at the finished device these are in no particular order but the first one is about the tutorial itself there were several instances during this process where the tutorial guides you to remove things that are not necessary the first one that jumped out at me came from comparing the tutorial made by extreme rate and the tutorial from j socks i saw that j socks kept most of the things attached to the magnesium frame whereas the one from this company removed almost everything when i got to that point in my build process i already knew that removing those things was unnecessary because i saw how the device was put back together i opted to keep the heat sink in place instead of removing it because it looked like that was pointless that is unless you're considering a repaste other things i only found out were pointless and hindsight near the very end of this build the extreme rate tutorial has you remove a bunch of things from the top of your old shell i thought this was so we could reuse the membranes but the kit comes with a membrane that you need to use in order to complete the build the next topic has to do with the screws it's not uncommon for kits like this to not be compatible with the original hardware that was used to assemble them this kit comes with a lot of screws and the tutorial doesn't make it clear if you are able to use both types if you watch the tutorial it does seem like they're using kit screws every time they need to reassemble something now something that you need to know is that you need two different size screwdrivers to remove the screws in the deck most of them can be removed with a smaller phillips head screwdriver but about two percent need in even smaller one while i was watching the rebuild portion of the video i saw that the guy demonstrated using the bigger screwdriver to screw in kit screws the only problem is you can't use that size screwdriver to put in those kit screws because it's too big so i was left scratching my head i scanned both resell kits that i have and found that all of their silver screws need the smallest screwdriver which the exception of the ones used to hold the controller boards and the back buns in place if you were to assume that the guide from this company uses all of the parts that they include in their kit then it would be impossible to finish doing the build if you followed what they did so at that point i just flipped a coin over whether or not to use the smaller screws or the official ones i opted to go with the official ones and i ignored all of the screws in this kit except for the ones that were used to hold the back buttons in place this 40 game of chests took a lot of my time the next topic has to do with the trackpads there is one point in the guide where you need to remove the pcb that is on the other side， the trackpad and the guide makes it seem like this is a super easy process so easy in fact that you can use a flimsy plastic prying tool to get it out the reality is an adhesive strip covers the entire other side of the pcb and there's no way you're gonna get that out using the orange prying tool that they show you are way more likely to break the pcb than anything else the odd thing is that this isn't mentioned at all in the guide that part just comes off and i believe that is because they've already done this tear down many times in the same shell， so the adhesive strip is crap after i finally got mine off i got to the point where you're told to apply a second adhesive strip to this part in order to attach it to a new top plate on one of my trackpads i decided not to do this because i didn't know if it would have any issues with input， but i did apply it to the other one and we'll talk more about that in just a bit when it came time to take apart the second piece tb i went with the blow dryer strat and that got the part out， but it was still difficult， but you're probably wondering about the screen and i have a lot to say i decided not to use a heat gun because i don't think many people will go that route or own a heat gun the problem is that the tools in this kit are crap the suction cup ring is very weak and it came off many times while i was trying to open up the screen the prying tool that they give you in this kit is also not a great option it's super sharp and it has a good chance of cutting you as it did to me even when things appear to be going well you have a very high chance of damaging the other side of your glass once you do that you'll find that you no longer have a black border on your screen when it came time for me to reassemble the screen i was feeling like i did a great job there were no scratches on the front of the screen and it appeared to be in perfect working order i found that i had many holes in my border i left a small one here in the middle， so i can show you what it looks like small ones like this just look like you have dust under your screen but i had huge ones i found that you can cover these up to some extent by going over them with a black marker you can probably use other materials too， but even though i've done that a lot of the edges of my screen are jacked from using the prying tool if you watch the guide from the company at around 38 minutes and 50 seconds， you will see their screen is superject and that's what you're risking if you use their metal prying tool to try and take off your screen this kit needs to come with a better suction cup and it needs something safer to remove the screen if you have those two things you can make the worst part of this build process much better now it's finally time to show up the completed build and i made a list of things that i want to address in this section to keep things organized these are things that i would like to know about this case if i were considering a purchase the first thing that we're gonna talk about are the buns and i'm gonna go over each one of these one by one so we can talk about the differences between these and the original the first ones that we're gonna go over are the two bottom buns these buns are slightly different than the original ones because they can move back and forth inside their slot a bit i don't know if this slot is slightly bigger than the original one or the button is slightly smaller， but it's something that's worth noting next up are the trackpads the trackpads work the same with or without that additional inner adhesive strip this one doesn't have the extra strip and this one does it's probably better to just remove the original one if you're going to go this route with a transparent case， but you can reuse the original one if it's still sticky and you're using a solid color when i eventually swap out this shell for another one i will fix this， but i did just want to show off what it looks like if you don't add that additional sheet the d pad and the abxy buttons are identical to stock in terms of how they feel when they're pressed because the membranes are the same， but the surface is different these have more grip because they don't have a glossy finish like the stock buttons that could be a good thing depending on the games you're playing especially when it comes to the d pad the abxy buns will feel slightly different to your thumb because the letters are embossed into the shell these guys are not screen printed like they are on the deck when it comes to start and select we have a tad more play to these than we do on stock but it's not that noticeable over to the top the power button and the volume buttons feel just like they do on stock even though these use aftermarket membranes when it comes to all of the shoulder buttons these guys feel identical to stock and finally the back buns also feel just like they do on stock the next thing that i want to talk about is the case quality and i think this build did turn out pretty well the only thing that i was able to find in this is a small fisher that appears right next to my right trackpad stuff like this is caused by screwing in a screw too tight but i don't think that i did that this is the only blemish in this entire build like this i'm gonna do a lot of shots here so you can judge the case quality for yourself， but we're gonna start off over here on the side i do think that the front and the back shells line up pretty nicely this is on par with the other two decks that i own when it comes to the bottom i did have some slight burrs between the front and the back shell that i was able to remove by going over this area with another piece of plastic but outside of that everything is perfect on the bottom and even though the top panel also looks pretty good when when we put it up close to the camera i did find that the front in the back shell don't sit flush near the cpu heat sink this is something that i've also seen in some replacement shells and in the first deck that i bought and then the final thing that i wanted to talk about are thermals does this shell impact the thermal performance of the deck the thermal properties are probably not the same as the stock shell since the plastic material is different， but i don't think it's that noticeable if there is a difference in thermals i ran this at 15 watt tdp using the new fan curve and the device temperatures are about the same as they are on my other two decks and the back of the case also feels about the same as it does on those so to wrap this up i would say that this is a pretty good steam deck replacement shell the quality of the plastic is good it feels like it was made by valve and it also looks great i still would rather go for clear or white but this atomic purple shell is awesome and this kit isn't that expensive at around 30 dollars a for the shell quality d minus for the tools in the kit and c for the guide i think that's a fair assessment for this product as for whether or not you should do this if you have done stuff like this in the past then you probably won't have any problem as long as you give yourself a lot of time to do this the organization is key here if you want to save some time so make sure to have containers or labeled sheets of paper to put components down on so you aren't left wondering where you got them from an hour into the build moving the screen is really the only point of failure for this so take your time and invest in a better suction cup i don't think i would do this on the decks that i care about even now that i know how to do it correctly but i'm finally taking the gamble on the cheapest deck let me know your thoughts down below and if you enjoyed this video feel free to take a look at a video that i did on a rising mini pc running chimera os， happy gaming everyone talky out。
粉丝4.7万获赞45.7万
相关视频
05:47查看AI文稿AI文稿这个前茶色透明壳买回来半个多月了，最近一直都很忙，没时间就没弄，今天晚上有时间我们就开箱这个前壳并安装上。换前壳可比换后盖复杂的多， 我也是第一次换啊，看看会不会翻车啊。这个几座的前壳购买后商家会给你发一个柴机视频，还有一个柴机的 pdf 说明文件， 还带了四套换屏用的双面胶，裁屏用的薄片也带了两片螺丝也都分类的装在盒内。 裁机用的工具，螺丝刀、镊子、裁机棒、吸盘、静电手套等工具一应俱全，这点很贴心啊。还有配件摆放用的盒子都设计了， 销售配件的商家真应该好好相对，解说消息一下。接下来我们裁机，先裁掉后盖，我没有用前壳带的螺丝，用的是机器本身的螺丝。 裁掉主板屏蔽罩，断开排线， 卸下主板固定螺丝， 撕掉风扇与扇叶器上粘的胶条， 将主板 微微翘起。断开主板下屏幕连接的排线，然后再将主板固定螺丝安装回去。拆掉扳机键， 裁掉左右摇杆， 裁除按键电路板， 拆除 steam 键和快速访问键。 裁除储宫板的电路板，裁除左右肩键和按键。 接下来裁屏幕，我这里用的是加液台，温度一百一十度，你也可以用电吹风，但是比较麻烦。裁这个屏不需要太高的温度，我觉得买个便宜点的加液台更方便， 没必要买我现在用的这种大的温度高的，这种温度一百一十度。放上去三分钟 拿下来用吸盘抬起屏幕，将拆机片插入后划开四周屏幕就下来了。 裁完平后清除残胶还是比较耗时的，残胶一定要清除干净， 并且不能用尖锐的金属物品清除残胶，我是用指甲盖一点一点清除的。将左右扬声器与前科分离， 拆除中框与前壳的固定螺丝， 裁掉电源音量键，还有排线， 然后是装机，正好与柴机相反。有一点需要注意，就是按麦克风排线时，缠胶 变形要修复，否则会堵住麦克风。更换前壳还是比较有难度的，我也是第一次更换，整个更换过程耗时两个半小时， 但才机仔细看才发现新的原件设计非常优秀，都给你标注出来，左右所有排线全部都有拉手，方便拆卸。所有你才下的原件都有限位设计，如果按错了几乎都按不上。 对了，换前壳会破坏贴膜，最好提前准备一张贴膜，换完壳再贴上， 开机测试完全没问题。茶色透明的效果， 还是换上我的小绿吧。 我还是觉得我这小绿好看。我们下个视频再见。白了个白。
44金镶宇
04:27查看AI文稿AI文稿想买这个透明后盖很久了，今天终于到货了，我买这个官方调查设，还多带了两套不同高度的背部按键，这个配件方面真的是很贴心啊，螺丝分类装的，并且每袋螺丝还有位置十一图，送了采集工具不说， 还给了防静电的指套，真是孤陋寡闻了。还是我配件买的少啊，买多贵的配件也没见送这个的。这个细节绝对值得小洗啊，你别管我用不用啊，但我看着就舒服。其实这些我一个都没用，但是看到这些我对这个配件的好感大大增加。 这是后盖外部，这个后盖装上后不影响使用。保护套和原装后盖对比一下，不像我之前换的那个带支架的后盖，换 上后所有保护壳都不能用了。看看这后盖内部，这后盖内部有惊喜啊！后盖主板位置有一块导液胶，导液胶后面是一块金属板，能起到散液的作用，这样的设计要是以后能在后盖 外挂个风扇还是不错的。办完的时候要是不小心碰到这里，还是挺热的，正常握尺握把是碰不到这里。这是和原装后盖的对比， 看看这座透明后盖的做工还是很不错的， 看看这内部的做工也是相当不错的。 接下来我们摘掉原装后盖，接下来我们换上透明后盖，这个黑透的效果还是非常好看的， 既然和原装后盖一样，那肯定可以使用这个支架扩展屋了， 如果你要是喜欢这种透明壳的感觉，那这个后盖还是值得购买的。这个后盖还有蓝色、绿色、紫色、红色、白色可选，我的这款是茶色。 我们下个视频再见。摆了个摆，我做完了这个视频，拿起 steam deck， 我靠，烫手。看看说明书，没什么特别的地方 需要注意那些丞相，看看现在是什么游戏都没运行。待机的情况下， 翻到背面看看，五十度了，这么多换后盖的，你们不烫手吗？有看出问题的吗？我们换上原装的后盖，同样也是待机，没玩游戏。 反过来再看一下， 最热的地方是进风口的地方， 左侧是透明后盖，右侧是原装后盖，这回有看出问题的吗？拿来原装后盖，主板和风扇位置有实木贴纸，还有上下两条泡棉。再看一下主板，这泡棉实木贴纸都有用啊。这些 组成了这个扇叶系统的进风通道。这个透明后盖的导液胶非常厚，正好把这个进风通道全部都堵上了，整个是把主动扇叶改成被动扇叶了。把原装壳上这个石墨贴纸撕下来， 在撕掉透明壳上的导液胶垫，将石墨贴纸包括海绵条全部贴上去，注意位置一定要正确啊。石墨贴纸上有两个螺丝孔，可以用来定位，这是安装好后微面的效果。 这回我们再用夜城先看一下。现在还是待机状态啊，什么游戏都没玩，看见这回这个风道是畅通的了， 进风口和出风口这回都是正常的了。这个后盖销量看商家也有上千的了，希望这个视频能让更多买这个后盖的看到也关 怪我自己半夜三更的才去折腾录视频，不小心还干废了一张 etb 的 tf 卡。这回求大家帮帮忙，回回血吧。这回损失有点大，麻烦大家了，我们下个视频，再见，拜了个拜。
141金镶宇
01:00查看AI文稿AI文稿哇，我这 skin deck 这半年是吃灰吃了个爽啊，今天就掏出这块成风十年的蒸汽夹板，给他换个壳。 换壳很简单，关机，然后把背面的螺丝和盖板取下来，如果你想换背件，也可以这个时候换，撕掉这个膜， 然后对准这样扣上去，拧回螺丝就完事了。这就是手机界的通用设计，透明探索板，因为这里加了一块硅脂，会突出一块，很多人就遇到了贴合不严的情况，我想了个办法，吹风机吹热再用力 就好了，或者直接开几个三 a 游戏考一下也是一样的。卖家怕我后盖螺丝滑丝，还贴心的送了我五个新的，那我这一大堆岂不是白买了，差评！据说这个后盖因为加了硅脂和铝板，散热比原版要好，我实际体验下来 好那么一点点，而且这一块是真的烫啊，要是有个散热风扇贴这里岂不是完美？
1423张天颖（陆悠悠版）
00:36查看AI文稿AI文稿粉丝是 sindap 的忠实玩家，旧的坏了直接来店里拿了台新版的游戏机，注意看这个 aa， 这是新版的 sinda 独有的编号，购买了新版 sindack 的用户可以看一下包装盒上的编号来确定自己是否买到了新版正品。全新的机器都是有防拆扣的哦！剪掉防拆扣， 打开包装盒，取出游戏机，帮粉丝换一下后壳和硬盘，拆下散热铝板，拆下硬盘，装上自带硬盘，装上散热铝板，装上透明后壳，插上充电器，轻松搞定。
04:23查看AI文稿AI文稿我的这台 steam deck 是一个六十四 g 的乞丐版，在前段时间呢，我把它给更换成 et 的硬盘了，然后这个外壳呢，也更换成了 rgb 的外壳， 基本上是一个顶配版了啊，说我一直是在想把它搞成一个完全体，就是他屏幕，这个高配屏和低配屏有什么区别呢？高配屏呢，就是一个石刻玻璃啊， 石刻玻璃呢，我们就会看到这个玻璃面呢，是一个像磨砂的那个纹理似的，在户外的话就不会去反光了。但这个石刻玻璃屏幕呢，我也找到他了，他就是解说家的 sing deck 高配石刻玻璃了，我们一块看一下吧， 它里边呢还是有一层保护棉的，保护棉拿开之后就是我们的屏幕了，高配的屏幕，屏幕外边呢还是有一层 保护膜的，里边呢应该是换屏幕的一些配件。这个是屏幕的排线，这个是屏幕的翘片，薄薄的翘片啊，这是屏幕的胶分的，有左和右，上和下，底下呢是防静电手套。这个呢是屏幕的吸盘使用说明书。 这是 sundec 所有的螺丝，这是拆机用的螺丝刀，还有一个小镊子。 最近天气凉快了吗？基本上带着这个 simdik 要出去玩了啊，这么大的一个 simdik 怎样出去玩呢？那我就要给大家推荐一个我经常使用的一个背包了， 外出呢主要就是用的这款光影星星的星云升级版斜挎包了。这款包呢外部是一个防水的材料啊，如果这个脏的话，我就直接喷上点水，然后给它擦一擦就干净掉了。然后我为什么要选择这款包呢？主要是它能携带我的 steam deck， 还是轻轻松松的往里边一放就可以， 这样背着我的斜挎包就可以出去了。他这个袋子呢设计的也挺有用心的，是一个磁吸式的，一拽，然后他就开了，往上一放他就扣好了，左右动上下动都是非常结实的。上面这个肩带呢，其实还配的有一个这个小包啊，他从这穿过去之后呢，上面也可以储藏一些我们的手机什么的。 我们看到里边的储藏空间还是挺多的啊，这是有非常多的这个保护的小颗粒，我们的掌机或者主机放里边的话就不怕它颠簸了。这边呢我们发现有一个无线充电的磁吸式的，还是非常方便的， 他是有一个五千毫安的电池，往这一贴就可以了，然后我们手机放在这里就可以自动进行充电了。这边的储藏空间也是挺大的，外部呢其实设计的还是有反光材质反光条的， 包括这个拉链部分都有反光条的，在外边晚上行驶的话，这里能看到我们还是比较醒目的。然后这个底部呢，可以放我们的雨伞，包括其他的自拍杆或者是我们的三脚架什么的，往这一卡就可以了。这个包的中间呢 也是一个半开放设计的啊，中间可以放我们的水壶什么的，那就不用担心水壶的水漏水进到我们包里边了。那接下来我们直接换屏幕吧，其实呢只需要将主板螺丝给取下来之后，左下角这里有一个排线啊，在背面把它去掉之后呢，将它翻过来有一个屏幕排线的，把它给去掉就可以了， 可以看到这个就是屏幕排线啊，然后再去加热屏幕，用吸盘把它给屏幕给去下来就可以了。看到这样就已经拆下来了， 拆完之后呢，将我们的新屏幕给粘上去就可以了，那咱这个具体的拆解教程呢？我会放在这个链接上，大家去点击看一下吧。好，这就换上了，把膜给揭掉吧。 室内普通玻璃的效果， 我们换上高配玻璃看一下室内效果，开屏看看，这是台灯，非常亮的，看到也是一个一致，高光效果非常好的。这是在室外啊，这个是原配的，没有十克的玻璃， 看到反光还是非常严重的，在室外呢， steak 基本上是不能玩的这个状态，等下咱换上高配玻璃看一下，看一下室外效果啊， 没反光啊，屏幕是一个雾面屏，高配屏果然不错啊。最后呢，其实大家动手能力不强的话，几硕也是有这个钢化膜的， 也是一个像高配屏幕一样十颗玻璃膜，这样贴上去之后呢，你的低配屏幕也就变成高配屏幕了，哈哈，这是最简单的解办法。那最后大家觉得这个 低配屏换成这个高配屏的这个表现效果怎么样呢？大家可以在弹幕上评价一下，大家如果喜欢本期视频的话，记得一键三连哦，这里是玩具社，我们下期再见，拜拜！
1953玩机社
03:07查看AI文稿AI文稿今天维修的机器是 steam dick， 该机器出现了不能开机的问题，需要专业的师傅进行拆机检测。这台机器目前全网我所了解的只有我们的老师傅进行了仔细研究，下载了该机器的详细图纸进行分析，同时使用这 机进行反复的拆解和破解，所以呢，在圈内小有名气，这台机器就是同行邮寄过来，拜托老师傅帮忙查看为何不能开机。在拆开机器基础的螺丝后， 能够看见背板上写有机器的编码，比如这台的尾数是零六八零三。一般 steam dick 的拆机是先对后盖进行拆解，找到口就可以沿着这条缝轻松的将机器拆下来了， 整个拆机的过程需要耐心认真的去完成，才能保证机器不受到损伤。 现在我们打开机器，经过老师傅的初步鉴定，发现是人为明显动过的，比如说在这个位置应该贴有锡纸，但是并没有看见。现在老师傅开始准备进行拆机了， 还是先将基本的螺丝摘下来，看一下主板的情况，从主板的情况基本上就会有一个大致的判断了，先小心的将主板拆下来，这个过程一定要小心，不要破坏到主板的本身结构。 将主板拆下来后，进行了最后的确定，确实这台机器是人为动过的， 没有硬盘，电池也没有插，怪不得同行会开不开机，也不知道这个机器是哪里搞来的，感觉像是被人恶意处理过一样，大家一定要小心啊。 拆除基本的螺丝后，就可以看到机器的总体的内部结构了， 师傅为了方便我们观看，拉近了镜头，能够看出来电池的序列号，电池的序列号，然后这个是主板的序列号，还有机器本身板子的情况都能够看出来。 接下来就是对其他一些零件进行拆解，这样的话方便到时候邮寄给同行。也不知道各位看到这样的拆解视频有什么样的感觉呢？整体对我来说感觉是非常连贯舒适， 是值得让人信任的。经过进一步的拆解，师傅发现 cpu 这个位置也是上过胶的，原来的胶是不长这个样子的，如果不是我们的师傅对这个机器图纸进行了仔细研究，甚至是其他的同行都没有办法看出来这个机器 哪里经过了恶意的改造。最后将这块主板整体拆写下来以后，能够看出来在其中一个位置是有明显的改造痕迹的，所以的话这个机器确实是经过一些人为的恶意改造，能够将这条信息反馈给原来的同行了。 通过同行邮寄过来的机器，正好给各位做一期有关于 steam dick 的拆解视频， 有什么问题的话也可以同步联系到我们，我们可以帮您解决有关于 steam deck 的专业问题。至此就拆机完毕，谢谢观看！
01:31查看AI文稿AI文稿听别开机经验分享。哈喽大家好，我是阿尔法 steam deck， 从下单到收货呢，历时了十七天，本想吐槽一下，结果一看呢两千七百四十九都没货了，那咱就别得了便宜还卖乖了，现在呢，我建议三千多的六十四 g， 你还是再等等，除非呢你不在乎性价比。 大家来看一下我的购物清单，本体呢，两千七百四十九，安好镜像的 ssd 六百五，做好 win 十的 tf 卡呢一百七，还有呢六块的保护膜跟二十的贴纸，总体花费呢在三千五百三十五，如果呢你有时间和精力呢，也可以自己去 运动镜像做文石，最少呢还能省两百，也就是呢，三千三左右就能一步到位。但是呢，最主要的还是要看拆机难不难。不废话了，直接拆。第一步呢，拆下四大四小的八颗螺丝，打开后盖，建议呢用指甲去拆，可以防止损伤机器。第二步呢，拆下均热板这三个位置的四角螺丝呢，这里呢要注意不要触碰 pcb 板跟这里的排线， 拆下后呢，就能看到左下角的固态插槽跟电源排线了。第三步，拆下电源排线，防止呢拆固态发生短路。如果呢，你是全新机可以不拆，但是呢如果是二手，那还是别嫌麻烦拆一下。第四呢，拆固态，先拆这颗螺丝后呢直接拔出， 再把新的 ssd 放入，从后往前放呢能更方便。然后呢就是恢复安装了，安装好后呢，先连接电源，因为呢我这个是多花钱预装好系统的，所以呢打开就可以直接进入了 tf 卡的问系统呢，也就是直接开机，按这个音量减键跟开机键就可以直接进入 windows 系统了。我呢先体验一段时间，反正最近也涨价，大家也先别着急买，咱们呢好好看看他的优缺点再约定。那么下期见，拜拜。
00:56查看AI文稿AI文稿真的不敢相信，我居然造出了一台我的世界限定版的 steam deck！ 一直觉得 steam deck 撒太黑的外观实在是太难看了。在玩了几天之后啊，我动了改色的念头， 因为它主要是运行 pc 游戏，而且能够改色的面积也很大，所以我决定把它改造成我喜欢的我的世界的主题，当然设计灵感时来自于这个手里，然后自己画个图，外壳我们就用主题绿色的草坪方块，出工版就用这个泥土的橡树元素，然后再简单的操作一下。 接下来我们就拿上图给师傅上色了。做这个改色确实是挺难为师傅的，因为需要很多地方的遮盖，所以啊，足足上上下下做了五天，而且老板人也很好啊，还给我加上了质感更好的类肤涂层。最后啊，就是展示效果啊， 如果不出意外的话，我的这台机器应该就是全网首台我的世界主机联名限定了。
1931万步起
07:41查看AI文稿AI文稿各位朋友大家好，这里是文社今天给大家带来的是 indeck 的彩色散热外壳，这个是己硕家的， 能看到有六种颜色，在提起原厂的壳子之后，我们就可以召唤神龙了。看到这个颜色，你有没有想起小时候玩 gba 的时候的紫透、红透、蓝透，还有透明色和黑透呢？ 这个散热外壳呢，我觉得他是现阶段来说比较好的一个散热处理方案，为什么这样说呢？因为我看到大部分这个散热都是在贝壳上掏孔 或者是把那个封道给破坏掉。这个处理方案呢是在我们的发热部分加了一个金属， 就是铝板，通过跪着垫来导热，同时也不会破坏原厂的封道，这种设计我觉得还是非常不错的。好，那我们就单独的拿出来看一看吧， 为了让大家看的更清楚一些，我拿透色比较透的一个外壳给大家看一下。首先这里边除了透明外壳之外，他配备的还有一些工具，有螺丝刀，手指套，防静电的，还有一些机身的螺丝。 然后就是按键了，有原厂的高度，有中高度和低高度的， 这个是按键根据自己的喜好可以装进外壳。让我们看一下贝壳的做工吧。 首先大家比较关心的就是这个铝板，这个铝板呢他不是外边附的一层塑料啊，他是直接裸露在外的。机身呢是磨砂的，材质是和我们的原厂的磨砂是一样的，我们看一下背面 对面呢，看这个壳子做工好不好，就要看一些细节。我们来看一下这个小的卡扣部分，卡扣部分我们看到做的非常的精细，没有任何毛边什么的，那证明他的 精细程度还是可以的，做工还是不错的，包括这个铜座旁边有没有毛边什么的，看到这里是一点毛边都没有，然后包括这个接送处，这里也是可以看出他做工的， 这个就是导热的硅脂垫，装的时候需要把它给撕开，那我们就把透明外壳装上去吧，这里给大家说一说怎样去装，还有一些注意事项，我个人呢比较喜欢黑透，用黑透来给大家做演示吧。 首先我们看一下螺丝，这螺丝设计的还是非常的有人性化的，看到这个螺丝都标记的有，这是在背面的四颗按键的螺丝， 然后这几个螺丝呢是我们的配件，装好之后需要上的四颗长螺丝， 画的都有图饰，以防你装错。这个呢是中间的四颗短螺丝，非常不错的啊，这是中间，会 多给你一颗，以防你丢失。好，那我们就把他的四个贝剑装上吧， 这是我们的按键，看到都有标记啊，这是 l 和这个 l， 这是分左右的，我比较喜欢用原厂高度的，就拿出原厂高度吧， 看到这里是啊，我们就把它放在啊的位置，上面，标记的也有这是啊四啊五，对准这个小豁口 再去装，装上了一会再拧螺丝，这是我们的左边，这写的也有 l 就是我们的左，先对齐小花口，然后再放进去，之后呢，拿出 这个标记的四个按键的螺丝取出拧上 好，右边装好了，我们装左边 好，左边装好之后呢，我们反过来看一看他的按键会不会卡键，看起来没有问题，我们就先把后壳给放一边，之后呢先把 scp 带上关机，我们反过来 这里我们就可以拆螺丝了，咱们看到螺丝就可以拆下来，对拆螺丝的时候给大家说一下，一定要把内存卡给取出来， 这个内存卡不取出来的话他就会折断，之前有朋友是内存卡折在里面了，拆完之后呢，这里有一个撬棒，我们从按键这里，哇，这边是撬撬开， 哎。开始装外壳之前，我们先用原厂的外壳来试一下，看一下温度有多少，这里我们看到已经把东西都调为超高了， 直接开始是七十二度左右，晚上时间长的话温度会更高一些。我们把我们的透明的极速外壳装上看看， 我们将装完备件的透明外壳给拿过来，用吹风机将这个部分给吹一吹， 这样的话这个位置就不会翘起来了，因为他是硅脂，但是加热之后会变得软一些，我们装外壳的时候会好装一些，我们来吹一吹吧， 吹好之后呢，我们将这个薄膜给撕掉， 一定要撕掉，要不然就不起导热作用，最后将它给卡在我们的背部 后头给装紧，装紧之后呢，我们试一试按键， 好，这按键不卡键。我们再来上螺丝，我们看装上去的效果还是非常不错的， 穿的还是非常漂亮的， 我们再来试一下装上透明的，挤出外壳之后，他这个散热效果是怎么样？刚才我们看到是七十二度左右， 做好之后我们也运行一段时间，看一看左上角温度是多少，看到现在是六十四度，六十五度左右，伪装这个透明外壳之前是七十二度，七十三度左右，差不多降了七度到八度， 其实这效果还是可以的，对于被动三人来说效果还是不错的，而且没有破坏原厂的风道。
59玩机社
01:56查看AI文稿AI文稿先关机，取出内存卡，然后拧掉背面的八颗螺丝，用指甲划开这些缝隙， 打开后盖就看到里面所有东西了。取下这个铁皮盖， 取下电池排线，取下硬盘，就是二二三二型号， 换上这个新的两 p b 的吸塑硬盘，把原来这个散热的贴纸贴回去， 硬盘就装好了。把这个电池排线装回去，然后再装回这个铁皮盖，注意不要弄变形了。再盖上机器后壳，拧上螺丝， 插上 u 盘，然后按音量减键不放，再按开机键开机， 进入这个磁盘选择界面，选择这个做好的系统安装优盘，进入桌面模式后，选择这个恢复磁盘现象来安装系统， 这个等他进步走完要等十几分钟，最后走完之后点 proceed 就行了， 自动重启后已经系统装好为时候，按照里面的要求来设置 wifi 语音时间，之后更新系统，大约十几分钟， stin pros 系统安装完成。
40小林数码维修
23:24查看AI文稿AI文稿two 嗯嗯 嗯 one two 嗯 two 夺过 my god total d s。 等你用 我有一个 not get in 咦妈哟 i cannot dial cole get you stayed 你肯定 啊 啊啊 here we go ready up i'm joyce this time i'm down round two point 啊啊 let's get you out who are you saying 谁呀 啊啊啊 you lose ah it appears we are almost ready to depart that i caught you before you left the scotland just the helly hmm perhaps you should cast lumas numerous well done they spoke tina could freedom stay close who looks professor professor fig professor where are you it seems i have no choice i'm going to have to fight my limos 报告 哈哈哈哈 ok 呦 oh 啊啊 你扛得动。 好啦 拥抱。
19油管科技TV
00:59查看AI文稿AI文稿第五期来了，一个字，拆！呃，重新来！第五期如何拆机？更换你的裤带？首先你要准备这样的螺丝刀，看好型号啊！然后就是超级棒，还有一个刻刀后面告诉你有啥用， wifi 包从后面打开就是最好的拆机架子。把它背面八个螺丝给拧开， 用敲奥吉棒从左键键处捅开贝壳哦，徒手拆开贝壳得使劲点。刻刀来了就是挑开这里的铝箔纸，卸下这三个螺丝， 小心把这个挡板取下来，拔下电源拔不动算了，哎哎， 卸下这里的固态，换上你的固态，最后把刚刚拆的那些装回去。学会了吗？学会了吗？学会了吗？下一期教大家安装 steamos 系统，我是陆哥，关注潮殿堂，学习更多小知识，你们学会了吗？
09:46查看AI文稿AI文稿the steam deck is a handheld portable device that lets you carry around your computer games in one convenient location it's like a slightly nerdier version of the nintendo switch no detachable controllers though it's all one solid unit i'll leave the gaming and software analysis to other reviewers though today we're gonna take it apart and see how it's all put together it's actually surprisingly easy with just eight screws on the back four large black phillips head screws around the edges and four smaller screws in the center the screws are self tapping and screwed into plastic steamer said that once it's opened， it'll never quite be the same again since the screws will re thread themselves as it's a symbol not too big of a deal and just something to keep in mind after the screws are gone i can take my plastic pry tool and pop the clasps around the edges and the whole thing is open not too shabby there's a lot to take in back here but the first thing we can look at is the metal grill let's attach to the rear panel for the fan intake， it's kind of plastic riveted in place and surprisingly it's made from little hexagons just like my jerry rig razor knife link in the description back here as well we have the four programmable buttons attached inside the grips these are just little flippy boys that flex inward ever so slightly when pressed then come in contact with the button that's attached to the motherboard interesting that the two visible circuit boards have a large r and l on them to help keep things organized i'm a fan of that there's so much going on in here just like the nintendo switch we do have a large fan inside and just like the nintendo switch we also have a large battery inside although instead of the the four thousand milliamp hours this steam deck has five thousand but more on that later let's check out the cooling system the black sticker on the bottom is purely aesthetic it's what you see underneath the fan intake reel hair runs from that intake along the top of the metal plate into the fan and then get shot out the top of the device the metal plates probably hear so that dust doesn't accumulate on top of the motherboard circuits but how does that airflow aid in the cooling removing three more black phillips head screws we can see that there are some rather juicy looking thermal foam pads resting on top of the components that need focused cooling kind of like thermal paste on a processor except for different the smooshie bits might look like angel food cake but i can assure you they do not taste like angel food cake？ the fan isn't necessarily drawing air in through any specific channel or onto it like we saw in the legion duel too may it rest in peace instead this steam deck just kind of pulls arian from all over the deck and shoots it out the top like a pc case with a single large fan in the back with the battery unplug we can take out another screw over the internal ssd it's super easy to remove just like we would see inside of a laptop except for that this time it's wearing a fancy little silver dress styling for sure apparently the dress is to help keep the drive isolated from the rest of the circuits so that it doesn't receive or create any electronic interference i'm not sure if these are swappable yet， but with i fix it being responsible for all the steam deck replacement parts do later this summer we should find out more about compatibility soon enough fun fact as i'm uploading this video it looks like i fix it has uploaded some parts on their website replacement screens are around sixty bucks rear plastic housings are twenty five， fans， twenty five and the thumbstick is twenty there are no motherboards or ssds yet， but it would be cool at some point if you could build your own steam deck right from my fix its website as soon as they become available i might just try it super cool of valve to preemptively allow repairs though thumbs up for that speaking of thumbs the next out are the dual thumbsticks on either side of the deck if the nintendo switch taught us anything it's that the joysticks are probably gonna be the first component that bites the dust my own switch ended up drifting on both joy cons after just a few years so it's nice that these can be replaced within minutes the red wire run into the top is for the capacitive plate on the upper side of the thumbstick， the left joystick is a mirrored image of the right joystick and have their corresponding rs and ls on the board to keep them organized next up， we have more of the cooling system a large copper heat pipe that rests on the main processor and take the advantage of all that airflow leaving the steam deck next to the fan there's a bunch of thin slivers of copper that act as a radiator that help keep the vapor in that chamber cool and the main processor at a reasonable temperature i guess this is where the deck lets off its steam but um the next thing i want to take a look at is the large square touchpad which should be hiding somewhere underneath this daughter board we can undo a few more screws and unclip the right trigger which has yet another screw hiding underneath the spring is the part that keeps the trigger springy with the trigger gone we can start on latching ribbons the ribbons are what join all the different boars together there are no lego style connectors remember there is also no ip rating or water protection on this thing so keeping it away from water is very important the daughter board is rather uneventful， but what lies beneath is rather extraordinary the trackpad is resting on its own kind of spring suspension system the springs keep the gold portion of the trackpad position just above the board of the trackpad and the serpent of wires on the board help relay where your finger is positioned as it's scrolling you can see how it flexes when i'm pushing up against it from the outside， i do however want to go deeper swallow and screw the springy bits which allows us to pull the trackpad out completely away from the steam deck body pretty slick little component you'll notice that there is a red and black wire leaving from the trackpad and that's because there's something special inside i thought the entrance might be under the gold point portion， but it's definitely not fingers crossed at this still worse when i put it back together the entrance is actually located on the top portion of the trackpad， which can unsnap and separate revealing that the red and black wires lead to another circuit board that's inside running an internal vibrator for the instant tactic feedback each of the trackpads has its own motor and once again cute little are inside in case you sneeze and all your parskate mixed up， while you're working on it speaking of which i'll get this trackpad put back into place before i forget how it's all situated up in the top corner we have our visually awkward looking， but cosmetically comfortable action buttons this side is the x， y， a b buttons and they work by having a conductive surface on the board that activates when a portion of a conductive piece of rubber comes in contact with it very similar to the nintendo switch and handheld controllers since the dawn of time including the old school nintendo controllers that did this as well the exterior plastic button sits on the rubber and when pressed the contact pat on the bottom touches the board allowing you to vanquish all your enemies or plant trees in farmville i don't know what games bring you joy it's nice that rubber basically has infinite flex and probably won't ever wear out within the life span of the deck each of the plastic buttons also only goes in one position so it's impossible to mix up their locations or for the letters to be upside down valve is doing us a favor by allowing repairs and also minimizing the way they can be assembled incorrectly very much appreciated and we haven't even gotten to the motherboard yet it's got a few screws of its own some signal wires and for some complicated reason two more ribbon cables plugged into the backside on a device that's easy to take apart this is a strange move， but there you have it the main board in all its chippy glory there is a black protective plastic layer on the back that's probably because underneath the motherboard is a metal subframe， which probably also held with the structural portion of the bin test， we can see the ribbon from the screen popping up behind the board we also have an inside look at the headphone， jack and buttons for the volume adjustments they have their own board as well finally the massive battery about one thousand milliamp hours larger than nintendo switch it's a pretty big boy the only downside is that just like the nintendo switch there is a ton of glue holding it in place i could probably use a bunch of heat or drip some ice appropriate alcohol behind to dissolve the adhesive， but i don't feel like exploding today and i also want this thing to keep working when it's put back together aggressively handled and bent batteries don't end up lasting for very long afterwards， so we'll just politely ask a valve for some magic pull tabs on the steam deck too and of course we have the centrally position fan overall i'm pretty impressed while my personal gaming skills probably peaked with pokemon blue on the game boy color i can appreciate the epic leap this steam deck makes with mobile gaming rumor has it that h of empires might also be playable on the deck let me know what your favorite game is and maybe i'll give it a shot with all the self tapping screws back in place on the back panel i can plug it in and it looks like we just might be successful quite honestly though if you want to save yourself the hassle of taking apart your own steam deck， but still want to see all the epicness inside my teardown skin for this console is probably one of the coolest ones we've ever made with the vibrators visible underneath， the touchpads and the fan battery and all boards laid out with their ls and ours no steamed deck would be complete without it in my opinion， i'll leave my dbrand link down in the video description so you can grab one for yourself and as far as functionality goes it looks like everything is still working joysticks， action buttons and even both trackpads not too shabby let me know what your current favorite game is down in the comments since this works i'll be looking for some new ones。
01:50查看AI文稿AI文稿steam deck 最详细的换固态硬盘教程来了，先收藏留着备用。 steam deck 现在六十四 g 的是二七四九啊，加固态正好。我这个是幻影的一 t 的固态，因为他这个有质保，还带了个装机 u 盘，还有拆机工具啊，一键式安装比较方便啊。这个是 u 盘，这个是固态硬盘，然后这个是拆机工具。我们开始拆机， 背面一共是八个螺丝，四角是四个长螺丝，中间是四个短螺丝，一定要收好。然后我们将这八个螺丝都拆卸下来，拆完以后拆壳子，这里我们要注意一下，他会给你一个卡片，用这个卡片对着缝隙一撬就开口了，侧面会有很多的卡口，隔一段距离撬一下。下面我们 用这个拆机工具里这个镊子，将它这个上面的这个薄膜揭下来，我感觉他像吸纸巾的膜，这个锡纸啊，但是不太好粘，是粘住的。我最后直接上手了，他这下面有个螺丝，我们将这个螺丝和上下还有两个小螺丝拆掉。我们将这个 面板拆下来以后，先看电池，我们直接用手向右平行的方向往外拉，将这个电池的连接拉出来啊，下手轻一点，将我们原来六十四 g 这个硬盘上面有个螺丝拧下来，把原来这个六十四 g 固态拔下来就可以了。上面还是有个像锡纸土豆片的膜，这个 膜粘的很紧啊，小心的揭下来。然后我们将幻影的这个二二三零一 t 的固态再插到这个膜里，然后将固态插回， 插好，拧上螺丝，电池这里插回去的时候一定要插紧啊，不然容易连不上。最后再将所有的配件都一路装回就可以。硬件完事，我们插 u 盘，按音量键减号，再按开机键进到系统里，直接选择 usb 触屏，选择左上角 sdmos 选项，弹出的 界面，选择右面 p r o 的选项。然后我们的 steak 就重启更新系统了，我们只要重新来一遍更新就可以了。但是有需要注意的问题，由于网络的原因，更新可能会很慢，而且到最后一秒容易卡住，如果卡最后一秒或者下载更新吧， 半个小时不动，可以试着重启一下。最后全部更新完，我们会看到 etb 的硬盘更新成功了，赶紧先收藏好，没有 steamback 的二七四九还等啥了，记得加关注，老黑推荐的肯定好！
1.5万黑桃没有k
02:30查看AI文稿AI文稿哈喽，大家好，我是掌基小白啊，这个 steam deck 我准备把它打开了，打开的话我也看了一下，有很多这个防拆扣，大家这个基本上都是用剪子把它剪掉啊 啊，正确的打开方式，今天给大家演示一下啊，如何把这个防拆扣能够给他打开，直接把手放到这使劲搂，哎呀， 看别人都那么轻松的，咱们这这么费劲呢，这个 是我没劲了吗？这个，哎呀我的天呀，这是什么情况， 说明这个扣是真没背人家弄开过呀，哎，好勒手啊 啊，我看其他人都很轻松，就直接把他把他拽开了啊， 这是，这是什么样的操作？这个 啊，看来真的需要动用剪子的力量了吗？ 哎，给我列列一身汗啊， 这完美主义者是不好当啊， 长长这么近是干什么？这个 没有想象中的那么沉啊，这个机器啊， 失败啊，拆箱失败，拆了我满头大汗，正确打开方式就是把它拽下来啊，直接这么拽就可以了，我是没有这个力气了，有这个 大家可以去试一试啊，就是这么开的，好了，不给大家展示了，就这样吧。
22掌机小白
05:02查看AI文稿AI文稿更换硬盘前，关闭 scene deck 电源并拔掉所有外界设备。 完全关机后，我们来拆除 seen deck 为后八颗螺丝 包装的小盒子，可以用来放裁除的螺丝。 拆出螺丝后，用翘片敲开机器后盖， 沿着手柄边缘找到后盖和前壳之间的缝隙，把翘片砸入。 沿着后盖一周，将卡扣撬开。 后盖与机器脱离后，我们拿掉后盖，开始拆除防护盖。防护盖一共三颗螺丝，一颗在贴纸下面，剩下两颗在盖板边缘。撕开贴纸，我们拆除固定螺丝。 螺丝裁足后，用手将防护板取出。防护板下面是龟子垫，粘的很紧，要死点地 裁掉后放到一边，现在开始裁出硬盘。 用螺丝刀把固定螺丝裁掉，就可以拔出硬盘了。 现在我们开始更换新硬盘并安装扇叶片。更换的是西部数据 cn 七四零。我们拿出辅增的导液体， 古筝的有两片导液硅脂和两片像变片导液体， 灰色的是镶边片导液贴，绿色是硅脂垫填充硬盘和扇叶片空隙。使用硬盘标签，不需要撕，撕掉了就没有保修了，不撕也不影响扇叶。 我们撕掉导爷贴的保护膜， 把撕掉膜的一面贴到硬盘有芯片的一边， 按紧压实后再撕掉有小把手的一面， 再安装绿色的导液硅脂垫， 填充硬盘和扇叶片的空隙，和刚才一样撕掉再贴到硬盘上。 s n 七四零可以直接按照视频方法贴， 按下紧实后撕掉保护膜。 接下来安装扇叶片。扇叶片是全铜的，正反两面也有保护膜，安装时一定要撕掉。 将扇叶片圆孔方向对齐硬盘圆孔方向扇叶片，对齐硬盘后按入卡槽内 扇叶片，安装完成后，把安装好扇叶片的固态硬盘插回插槽并拧紧螺丝， 再把保护盖和机器后盖原样装回， 这样就安装完成了。更换硬盘后还原系统可以参考其他组的教程。
140小绿鳄数码
01:05查看AI文稿AI文稿来教你们一招，用最低的价格玩到顶配的 steam deck 灰色其实是给 steam deck 留了一个后门的，那就是我们可以自己更换他的固态硬盘，而且啊，动手操作的难度啊真的是非常低啊，属于是有手就会来啊，今天我就手把手的教给你们。 首先我们需要一台这个三千多购入的六十世纪代课，然后你看到了这几个螺丝吧，把它卸下来不难吧，打开它的后盖，然后断电，拿下屏蔽照，再拿出我们六百多块钱买的遗体固态，取下固态位，然后我们换上自己购买的固态，再倒放一下装回去。 接下来我们就要在 cm 的官网上下载一个 os 的安装文件，放在 u 盘里面， 连上游戏机，按下音量简介，加上电源键啊，就可以进入安装程序了。在经过这样这样的操作之后啊，然后我们的系统也就安装完毕了，登录我们的 c 幕账号，再看一下 游戏机的内存啊，直接就变成了 at 版本的，整体花费啊，还不到四千，是不是就很爽？有丐版十天木价格的小伙伴啊，完全就可以用我这套的方式给你的主机进行升级，比起直接买 at 的版本啊，我可是给你们省下了好几个游戏的钱。
6879万步起
